Visit SIpadan Island , Sabah Malaysia

Sipadan Island (Pulau Sipadan in Malay) lies off the east coast of Malaysian Borneo in Sabah. The island is known above all for some of the best scuba diving anywhere in the world.

 Get in

Getting in requires some effort. Most visitors fly to Tawau from either Kuala Lumpur (3 hr) or Kota Kinabalu (50 min), continue by minivan or taxi to the port town of Semporna (1-2 hr) and from there to Sipadan itself (1 hr by fast boat).

 Get around

Walking along the beautiful sandy beaches, snorkelling sites on all sides of the island can be reached. Scuba divers usually will take a boat a few minutes from the beach to their dive site.
It is no longer possible to stay on Sipadan itself

See

The beautiful sandy beaches and the coral reef with its rich marine life. On the island there are large monitor lizards (more than 1 m in length) which sometimes come out onto the beach or even into the water.

 Diving

One of the many sea turtles in the waters surrounding Sipadan

White tip reef sharks in the waters surrounding Sipadan

Sipadan claims to be the world's best dive site. While this is a big claim, the diving here is certainly world class. Sipadan used to have resorts but to protect the environment these were closed around the year 2002. To dive on Sipadan you have to stay somewhere nearby, such as on Mabul, Kapalai or in Semporna, and take a boat onto the island.
Because Sipadan is now a protected site, only 120 divers are allowed daily (April 2013). It is only permissible to be on the island 08:00-15:00. As such, all dive operators will begin and end your dives around the island during this time frame.
From the main beach of the original resort it is a mere 20 m wade over the reef to reach the top of the reef wall dropping 1,000-2,000m. Sipadan is surrounded by very rich reef life consisting of both hard and soft coral as well as all manner of reef fish. Sea turtles and white tip reef sharks can be seen on almost every dive and hammerhead and leopard sharks can also be seen at times (though rarely nowadays). Huge schools of jackfish, barracudas and bumphead parrotfish are also highlights (especially around Barracuda Point) - if you are lucky you may see a jackfish or barracuda "tornado" as they change direction. While macro life does exist here, you are mainly at Sipadan to see the larger critters - the divesites around Mabul and Kapalai are better for macro photographers.

School of barracuda at Barracuda Point

Visibility ranges from 10 m to 30 m and more, although this decreases on stormy rainy days. A lot of diving here consists of current or drift diving, with the currents around Barracuda Point being the strongest (at one point, you can get swept away quite quickly if you aren't careful). Divemasters will usually keep you around 20-25m for the wall dives, although deeper dives are available for technical divers (depending on the dive shop and divemasters available). Your last dive of the day will generally be at a shallower site, around 15m. One of the divesites includes a cave called the Turtle Tomb - if you are lucky and get a cave-certified divemaster and torches, you may even be able to go into the dark for a cool and hair-raising experience (do follow instructions to the letter, or you may not be able to come back out!).
The rate for three dives at Sipadan is around RM800 (April 2013). Rates vary slightly among different operators. Boat transfers and packed lunch are included. Permits are limited to 120 per day and are obtained by the dive operators. It is not possible to dive Sipadan without a permit. Some dive resorts will guarantee a Sipadan permit at 40MYR if you stay for 4 or more nights (this may vary), and extra permits cost 140MYR if you are lucky enough to get another one - pre-booking is key.
As announced by the Malaysian Government effective 10th Feb 2013 the following rules apply when diving Sipadan Island: only Advanced Open Water Divers or entry level divers with a minimum of 20 log dives are allowed to dive in Sipadan. This is likely due to strong currents experienced at some dive sites, as well as instances of novice divers descending too rapidly and/or deeply.
Check diver reviews of dive operators in the area before choosing. Many have had customer complaints regarding faulty equipment.
Dive shops include:

• Borneo Global Sipadan Backpackers & Dive Centre: Guaranteed Sipadan Permit and located in Semporna. +60 89 785088, +60 88 270976.

• Big John Scuba Located on Mabul Island. Nice diveshop affiliated with Lai's Homestay. bigjohnlim@hotmail.com, +60 14 2843723. Office located in Semporna near Dragon Inn

• Blue Sea Divers located in Semporna.

• Diving Sipadan Malaysia, [1]. Scuba Diving Training Center in Sipadan Malaysia  

• Sipadan.com Dive Centre & Longhouse located on Mabul with office in Semporna.

• North Borneo Dive & Sea Sports located in Semporna.

• Scuba Junkie located in Semporna (very basic hostel and main dive office) and on Mabul (nicer dive resort) - Sipadan dives are only available to divers staying on Mabul. Good rep for well-maintained equipment and safe diving in small groups (4-6 people per divemaster). Mainly international divemasters, with a few locals as well, who focus on conservation and marine biology. They only get 7 permits a day so you have to book early (a good bet is a year ahead). They head out around 7:30AM for Sipadan and do 4 dives. They have a divemaster who is able to take people into the Turtle Tomb with torches.

• Borneo Divers Mabul Resort dive resort located next to Scuba Junkie on Mabul - their Semporna jetty for island transfers is located next to Dragon Inn Water Village. Well-maintained equipment, safe diving. Group sizes range from small to large (4-10 people per divemaster). They employ local divemasters whose experience ranges from 20 years to under 2 years - all focus on dive safety and conservation. They get 14 permits a day and guarantee one permit @ 40MYR for guests staying a minimum of 4 nights (during low season you may be able to get more than one day at Sipadan, but will pay 140MYR per extra permit). They head out to Sipadan around 8AM and do 4 dives.

• Sipadan Scuba PADI 5* IDC Centre located in Semporna.

• Sipadan-Mabul Resort located on Mabul island.

• Seaventures Dive Rig a converted dive platform, PADI 5* IDC Centre and resort located 2 min off Mabul Island. Generally speaking, you will be staying on a converted oil rig just offshore - fantastic diving underneath, accommodations is basic but clean. Not suitable for non-divers as there is no beach access without a boat. Guaranteed one (1) Sipadan Dive Permit for minimum 4D3N Seaventures Dive Package.

• Sipadan Water Village located on Mabul island.

• Uncle Chang's Sipadan Mabul Dive Lodge located on Mabul island. The office is also located near Dragon Inn in Semporna.

• Singamata Adventures Semporna S /B Dive lodge located Singamata house reef. The office is also located next to Seafest hotel in Semporna

• Summer Friends located on Mabul Island.

• Billabong Scuba Located on Mabul Island. This dive shop has a very poor reputation (see reviews elsewhere). Diving with them is generally not advised, even if they have the only Sipadan permits left.

• Sipadan Kapalai Dive Resort If you want the classic water village resort stay and money is no object, then Kapalai is for you. The island sits next to Mabul, about 20 minutes by speedboat to Sipadan.

Snorkelling

For non-divers, snorkelling is an option on Sipadan. From the beach the reef is easily accessible, and parts of the reef further out can be reached by boat. A wide variety and number of reef fishes, corals, and with a bit of luck, the sharks, barracuda and turtles can be seen without leaving the surface. Note that currents and boat traffic (especially if duck diving) are the major hazards in the offshore areas, and cryptically coloured stone fish may be a hazard in the shallows.
A buoyed-off area from the 'safe' side of the jetty gives snorkellers the safest and potentially most productive snorkelling area. The phenomenal drop-off that makes this island so special, starts where the jetty ends.
Several dive tour operators bring snorkellers to the island at an all-inclusive rate of around RM490. If you are on a boat with other divers, they can take you along and you can snorkel in the shallower parts of the other dive sites under the watchful eye of the boat captain.

Liveaboard

Only Sipadan Liveaboard in Semporna is MV Celebes Explorer with 8 cabins. Guaranteed Sipadan permit

Buy

With all resorts closed down, there is nothing to buy on the island.

Eat

There are no restaurants, and dive tours bring their own lunch and snacks with them. There is a common area in front of the jetty with picnic tables, where the dive tours set up their lunch/snacks.

Drink

Dive tours bring their own water and drinks with them.

 Sleep

All resorts on Sipadan have been closed in order to preserve the island in a pristine state. Diving is still permitted and possible by day-trips from the nearby town Semporna, or the nearby islands of Mabul (25 min by boat) and Kapalai (15-20 min by boat).

Mabul Island is an island 15 km away from Sipadan that you can stay on. The entire island is an interesting mix of dive resorts and local Bajau "sea gypsy" communities living on fishing and supporting the tourist industry. Mabul is a great base for diving both Sipadan and other local sites, and there is a hostel oil rig just off the island that has some great sealife underneath. All places to stay there require pre-booking and you will be transferred by boat from Semporna. Try to stay here if you are doing a few dive days, as Semporna itself is a bit run-down and dirty. You will be lucky if you turn up and find a free bed on the island (although more likely during the "low" season of November to March).

Kapalai Island is another island 15km from Sipadan, about 20 minutes by speedboat. It has the swanky Sipadan Kapalai Dive Resort, with wooden chalets out over the water. Kapalai also has some good divesites itself, including its "House Reef" (artificial house structures that now have burgeoning marine life). Resorts on both Mabul and Kapalai will generally take you to divesites around both of the islands on non-Sipadan days.

Semporna is the "mainland" port city through which all tourist traffic flows, about 36 km from Sipadan. Generally a town to be passed through on your way to Mabul or Kapalai, although you can get a feel for local life by trundling through the back alleys near the fish market (which is both impressive and slightly disturbing, as you likely saw those fish on your dive). Good variety of Malaysian food on the main drag near the jetty, for very decent prices. Accommodation varies from dirt-cheap hostels to higher-end hotels/resorts.

As most dive tour operators also operate an associated hostel/resort, see listings under the "Do" section. A lot of hotels/hostels are located around the main Semporna jetty on the southeast edge of town.

 Stay safe

The islands were previously disputed between Malaysia and Indonesia, leading to instability in the region - there was also a highly publicized case of 20 tourists being kidnapped by Abu Sayyaf rebels from the Philippines in 2000. However, an International Court of Justice decision sided with Malaysia, and the area is now regularly patrolled by the Royal Malaysian Navy, who have an outpost on the island. Safety issues are now mainly related to diving activity alone.

Get Out

Welcome to the Maldives

If you are considering visiting the Maldives for the first time, and are looking for some general advice and tips on choosing a resort, then this is the place to start.
The resorts: All Maldivian resorts are on their own island. These range in size from 2.5km across to just 150m across. This means that the facilities on the resort you choose (restaurants, bars, sports facilities, entertainment etc) are the only ones you will have access to during your stay. Most resorts offer excursions by boat to local fishing village islands, or to the capital Male, but otherwise you will stay on the resort island for the duration of your stay. There are 106 resort islands to choose from, ranging from affordable to ultimate luxury. If you want to experience the 'real' Maldives then you might want to consider one of the Guesthouses that are now available on 5 inhabited islands, offering rooms at very reasonable rates.
Getting to your resort: International flights arrive at Male's Hulhule airport, which is on an island of its own. Many holidaymakers arrive on chartered flights, but there are scheduled services with Emirates (via Dubai), Qatar (via Doha), Air Sri Lanka (via Columbo) and Singapore Airlines (via Singapore). Starting in October 2009 there is also a direct scheduled service with British Airways from London Gatwick three times a week. Transfers from the airport to your resort island are either by boat, seaplane or domestic flight, depending on the distance. If your resort requires a seaplane transfer, a few things to be aware of: the seaplanes only operate in daylight hours, so if you arrive after sunset you'll have to stay in Male overnight before being able to transfer to your resort. Ditto if your flight home is early in the morning - you will leave your resort the afternoon before - make sure you check with your tour operator that you will be given accommodation while you wait for your international flight. The seaplane journey in itself is an experience, as you get stunning views of the atolls - make sure you get a window seat and that you get your camera out before boarding (your hand luggage will probably be put at the back of the plane as there's no space under or over the seats). The seaplane will usually land next to a floating platform, from which you will be picked up by boat to be taken the remaining few metres in shore to your resort.


Some resorts have landing stages that allow the seaplane to deliver you right up to the beaches of your destined resorts. It is an amazing feeling to get off the sea plane & right on to the sunny white beaches of the country where waves are sweeping at your feet. NB -  seaplane transfer methods vary from resort to resort.


What there is to do: The Maldives are a tropical paradise, and people visit for the beaches and the watersports - the underwater life is amazing and the Maldives has a reputation as a diver's paradise.. Most resorts won't have a busy entertainment programme, and there's definitely no sightseeing (apart from the occasional organised excursion by boat from the resort to a local inhabited island). If you're not happy lounging on a beach with a good book soaking up the sunshine in between swimming in the sea, or spending your days diving or snorkelling, then this probably isn't the place for you!

Choosing your resort: Price is obviously the initial consideration, and the Maldives has resorts for most budgets (including the unlimited!). However, there are a number of other important considerations.

1. Accommodation types. Most resorts have a variety of accommodation types at varying costs. Upgrading from the basic accommodation offered in the brochure to a larger room, or one in a better position, can change the cost of the holiday considerably.  Check the brochure description for each room type, and check the resort's website if possible for pictures. Generally, rooms are single storeys (you'll not find high-rise hotels in the Maldives), but some will be in two-storey blocks, while some rooms will be terraced and some detached. The main difference in rooms tends to be location - set back in the island, directly on the beach, or over the water. Many resorts offer water villas on stilts over the sea, but not all of these have steps down into the water, meaning you have to walk out of the villa and to the beach if you fancy a swim in the sea.
2. Accommodation density. As previously mentioned, the resort islands vary greatly in size, but they also vary in terms of number of rooms, and a smaller island doesn't always mean less rooms. Generally, the more expensive an island the fewer rooms for the size, but it's worth checking and comparing before you go if you're intent on a "get away from the world" romantic holiday. It's worth noting that, if all the rooms on the island are beachfront, then they'll each have their own little bit of beach in front of them that you'll not have to share (although the distance between rooms will vary).
3. Resort facilities. Bear in mind that you won't be able to go elsewhere for meals, sports or entertainment so choose the resort with the facilities you want. Many islands only have one or two restaurants, so if you're fussy with your food, make sure you choose one that offers a buffet rather than a set menu. Not all resorts have a pool (you could argue that, with the Indian Ocean surrouding each island, you don't really need one), so if that's important to you, then check the resort description carefully. Some resorts have sports facilities such as tennis courts or a gym, some offer watersports such as windsurfing and kayaking. Again, check the description and also check what is included and what you'll have to pay extra for. A number of islands have a spa and almost all have a dive centre. Most of the dive centres on the resorts are run by external companies, so if you're a diver, or thinking of learning while you're there, then find out who runs the dive centre and check out their website for details of exactly what they offer. Evening entertainment will probably be limited, but some resorts are much more lively and will offer nightly discos or live music - again, check before you go (not least because that may be your idea of hell on earth!).
4. Distance from Male. Those resorts very close to Male will have shorter transfers, but may not be as quiet - you may find yourself under the flight path for the airport, or near a commercial shipping lane. If possible, check a map of the Maldives and locate the resort - if there's nothing between it and Male, then the risks of it being less than the Robinson Crusoe away from civilization experience are high. If you have to take a seaplane transfer, or if the resort is further out, then the chances are it'll be quieter. All the Maldivian islands are beautiful, but the sight of an oil tanker sailing past the beach can distract from the picture of paradise!
5. Diving and snorkelling. If you want to snorkel amongst the coral, check that the house reef (the one that at least partially surrounds the island) is near enough to swim to. Some resorts have beautiful wide lagoons that are perfect for swimming and windsurfing, but require a boat trip to get out to the coral reef. If you want to snorkel with the tropical fish every day at a time that suits you, then this may not be for you. If you're a diver, then choose a resort based on the proximity of good dive sites and the facilities offered by the dive centre. However, bear in mind that the popular dive sites, especially in Ari Atoll, may be very busy - some of the less developed atolls still have excellent, although less well known, dive sites that will be a lot quieter.

Board packages: For most resorts, the standard brochure price is for bed and breakfast (although there are now a few resorts that are all-inclusive as standard). Many offer other board packages for a supplement, but make sure you read the brochure description carefully to see what is included - all-inclusive doesn't always mean everything is included. In many resorts, the meal packages (including all-inclusive) will only include meals in the main restaurant, and you will have to pay a supplement to eat elsewhere. The drinks included in AI packages varies greatly with resorts too - some don't include cocktails at all, some have a separate AI drinks menu. Some AI packages will only include drinks taken at certain bars or restaurants. Make sure you check before you go, or you may end up with a hefty bill at the end of your stay. If you're not a heavy drinker, or want to drink cocktails and they're not included in the AI package, it may end up cheaper to go half or full board. Some AI packages also include other benefits, such as hire of snorkelling equipment or use of windsurfers, but unless specifically mentioned in the brochure, assume you'll have to pay for these types of extras.
Things to be aware of: Costs of meals, drinks etc in resort will be high. Everything in the Maldives, with the exception of fish and coconuts, has to be imported, usually by plane from Dubai and then brought to the resort by boat from Male, so it's expensive. In resort, you sign for all purchase and settle up at the end, and you may well be faced with a hefty bill. Factor this in on top of the cost of the brochure price, especially if you go on a B&B package, so it doesn't come as a very nasty shock once you get there. On top of meals and drinks, additional costs will be for any excursions, watersports tuition, equipment hire, spa treatments and souvenirs/extras from the resort gift shop. BE AWARE:  everything that you purchase on the island that is not part of your board basis, will attract a 10% service charge on top of the published price.  A further 6% Government Tourist Tax is also added to purchases on the island.  This is set to increase further in the near future.  Check the resort details before you leave to see what is included - things like snorkelling equipment hire can easily mount up, especially on a two-week holiday, so if it's not included, it will probably be cheaper to buy it before you go if you want to use it every day. Make sure you take adequate supplies of things like suncream (you'll be on the equator, so you'll definitely need lots of it) and toiletries, as they're expensive once you're there and the resort gift shop won't have a big selection. 
The Maldives really is paradise on earth and you'll probably have a wonderful time which ever resort you choose, but a bit of careful planning before you go can ensure that you make the best choice for you and have the perfect holiday.
An alternative to staying at a resort (or guesthouse) is to spend a week (or more) on a small cruise boat (Liveaboard) which caters for divers, snorkellers and those who just want to relax.  The majority will visit resort islands, inhabited islands and deserted islands (see the Travellers Articles about various Liveaboards).  It is possible to combine a Liveaboard experience with a week on a resort island.
In addition to the small 'liveaboards' there are two slightly larger ships (40 passengers) that operate in the Maldives. Both cater for snorkellers, divers and beach lovers and both are the subject of Traveller Articles (Atoll Explorer & Yasawa Princess)